Tourists in our hometown: Washington, DC

Normally, I like traveling to new places, getting a taste of a different culture perhaps, or stepping into someone else's shoes. So when I found out that I had won another free trip, this time to Washington, DC, I couldn't help but laugh a little. DC isn't in any way new to Kristen and I: we both grew up in Northern Virginia, and then after college we lived just outside the city for several more years. But still, I couldn't turn down free airfare for two, a king-sized bed at the DoubleTree by Hilton, and four nights in a central DC location.

DGS Delicatessen

No matter how well you think you know a city, there is always more to discover. They're in a constant state of change. Rising chefs open new restaurants, galleries cycle through new exhibits, neighborhoods are revitalized. I was excited to put myself in the shoes of a tourist in a city I thought I had already figured out. What haven't I done here? Where haven't I been? My goal: do as many new things as I could think of, while minimizing my exposure to the familiar.

MLK Memorial

National Building Museum

Meridian Hill Park Drum Circle

In true tourist fashion, we were without a car and completely reliant upon public transportation. Instead of taking the metro system to get around, we opted for the recently-installed Capital Bikeshare, which has tons of convenient locations all over the city. Riding right in the thick of it above ground, all the while getting exercise, was refreshing and arguably more fun than the alternatives. We rode all over town, visiting neighborhoods I'd never been to before, including the up-and-coming Southeast Waterfront. It was here, over numerous beers at the impressive new microbrewery Bluejacket, that I realized how much the city was changing and that visiting DC (or any city, for that matter) would never get old.

DC Capital Bikeshare

Bluejacket

My long list of restaurants, ranging from classic to brand new, has continued growing even after we moved away from DC; this trip gave me the chance to start crossing them off. We finally popped into Old Ebbitt Grill, the city's oldest saloon and a place where 19th century presidents would go for a drink (it's a short walk from the White House). Newer ones like DGS Delicatessen, Daikaya, Le Diplomate and Doi Moi were walkable from our hotel and delivered memorable meals. One of the eateries high on our list was a new one we'd been hearing about called Rose's Luxury on Barracks Row. We ordered most of the menu with Kristen's parents and were floored at just about everything: the food, the service, and the space itself. It was pretty cool when a couple days later Bon Appetit named it the best new restaurant in the country. (Note: If you go, get in line before 4:45pm.)

Rose's Luxury

A few times, though, we did slip back into our old ways. We couldn't help taking a look at the National Portrait Gallery's American Cool exhibit, and when we rode too close to the National Gallery of Art we were drawn in like bugs to a lightbulb to check out new exhibits for Wyeth, Cassatt and Degas. We didn't feel guilty at all wandering through part of their permanent collection, for old time's sake.

National Gallery of Art

At the end of our stay, we ventured into rural Virginia to The Inn at Little Washington for our best anniversary dinner to date. Consistently rated as the top restaurant in the DC area, the Inn (which also has 25 rooms) serves up world-class, seasonal tasting menus that are surprising, delightful, and super duper tasty. We were by far the youngest patrons in the restaurant, probably owing to how rough it is on the budget, but we relished every bite throughout our four-hour meal.

Inn at Little Washington

By staying in a hotel and biking around (sometimes aimlessly), we were able to see the city from an outsider's perspective. Instead of a guidebook, we were armed with a personal list of things-to-do, and we managed to go to about 15 different restaurants, bars, museums, monuments and parks that we'd never seen before. Plus, we got to meet up with lots of friends and family along the way. It turns out, being a tourist in your hometown can be just as exciting as being a tourist elsewhere.

The Wild Side of Albuquerque

When we at last reached Sandia's summit in the late afternoon, my tired body relished the crisp mountain air. I handed over my credit card in exchange for a pair of cheap one-way tickets. Outside on the wooden deck, we breathed in the enormous view and marveled at the Albuquerque grid stretching west before us. From way up here, we could almost pick out our tiny house (okay, my mom's house) far down below.

After having spent way too much of the hot summer indoors, Kristen and I decided that it was time to retackle the La Luz Trail, a not-too-strenuous trek to the top of the mountain we see everyday from our backyard. The eight-mile path winds its way up through four different climatic zones, ending at a panoramic intersection of east-facing ski lifts and a west-facing tram.

The first couple of sweaty miles offered us a fair share of prickly pear cacti, piñon trees, skittish lizards and chattering birds. My sandaled toes grew dusty as I squinted at the monument-like peaks surrounding us, searching for familiar vistas to orient myself. But the mountain, which changes colors throughout the day from city level, had taken on an unrecognizable form. It was even more spectacular up close.

The upper half of the hike is drastically different. You can expect to find colorful wildflowers, fragrant pines, and unusually large squirrels with tufted ears. And be prepared to flex those leg muscles. There are tons of switchbacks, cutting back and forth through dark forest and across a sunlit slope piled with jagged pink granite rocks.

High contrast: the lower half of the hike vs. the upper half

The sense of accomplishment I felt at the top, knowing that my legs alone carried me here, was immediately followed by a feeling of relief that all we had to do was hop on an electric-powered tram back down. Once the forty or so people boarded into the dangling box, it hung heavy for a moment before swooping into motion. It was surprisingly smooth. We floated down towards civilization, as if in a giant elevator, and savored our knee-saving descent. My only wish: to feel the breeze just outside the window.

sandia-tram-albuquerque

Discovering Fall Foliage in the Southwest

Okay folks, this is the first fall season we've spent away from the east coast...EVER. We grew up in Virginia, went to college in Rhode Island, and returned to Virginia for 6 years. So it's hard to suppress homesick feelings when friends and family back east post fall photos all over social media, bragging of their daily access to fiery displays of foliage. Colors abound in those parts for a few weeks around this time of year. Which is why a couple of weekends ago, Loren and I took to the road in search of fall. We found it less than an hour's drive away.

Aspen Vista

A spot almost all the way up the mountain to Santa Fe Ski Basin, Aspen Vista fully embodies its name, offering stunning views over thousands of aspen trees. Being a short 25-min drive from downtown Santa Fe makes this one of the most popular day hikes in the area. The out-and-back trail along the service road can amount to a 12-mile round trip, but you can turn around whenever you want. Just keep in mind that you're starting at 9,900 ft with a potential gain of 2,100 ft.

Our adventure began by taking full advantage of the warm, sunny afternoon, so we spread out our standard hiking fare at a picnic table: canned sardines mixed with avocado, with a side of pecans and pistachios.

Then, we walked into the golden forest, snapping photos and collecting leaves along the way.

After about 30 minutes on the trail, we'd reached the edge of the colors. Our visit was probably about a week too late, as many of the trees past that point were already stripped of their leaves. The faded and fallen leaves littered the trail and forest floor, but the overall effect was not lost on us: the naked trunks were beautiful in their own right.

On the way back to the car, we took a detour and found ourselves among enormous teepees made of hundreds of fallen aspen trees and branches stacked upright. Very Andy Goldsworthy-esque.

Even though it wasn't quite the peak of the aspen foliage, we had a wonderful time just being outside and playing around.

With our fall color cravings satisfied, we headed home just in time to catch another jaw-dropping sunset. New Mexico just might have us under its spell.

Early Morning Adventure: Balloon Fiesta

Our morning started about two hours before sunrise. After layering up and grabbing the camera, we ventured out into the chilly dark morning and drove north. By the time we made it to the parking lot, any sleepiness or grumpiness had been completely replaced with sheer excitement. We quietly boarded our (school bus) shuttle with another 40 early risers. Our destination: the International Balloon Fiesta.

This year marks the 42nd annual Balloon Fiesta, with balloonists from 18 countries and 35 US states represented. Why Albuquerque? Turns out this high desert city is perfectly suited for hot air balloons, thanks to its unique early-morning weather patterns in the fall. There are two alternating winds that exist at different altitudes: closer to the ground, the wind blows south; higher up, the winds blow north. This so-called "box" effect gives balloonists the chance to turn back and land near their launch points simply by changing their altitude. The catch: as the temperature rises, the effect lessens...thus, the early morning wakeup.

Upon arriving, we joined a sea of people craning their necks, cameras, and iPads to capture glimpses of twenty or so hot air balloons floating quietly overhead. They were barely visible in the dark morning sky until a voice counted down to coordinate a “flicker” and then “full glow”, which lit up the balloons for a spectacular effect. It was only 2 minutes into our first Balloon Fiesta, but we were already captivated.

After that, we bought some hot coffees and considered breakfast, but the food vendors left something to be desired. There were even some repeat vendors from big chain businesses. Albuquerque, if you're listening, the Fiesta is a great opportunity for food trucks! This city has some fantastic food options, so why not showcase some local small businesses that offer greater variety than breakfast burritos or funnel cakes? I understand that the attention should remain on the balloons, but the event could represent the best and most unique vendors that the city has to offer, and I'd argue that the local Satellite Coffee would be far more memorable than Dunkin Donuts any day.

Leaving the vendor tents behind, we walked out onto the field, guided only by the mass of balloons that were prepping for the big event. We followed a path to a pair of almost-filled balloons that were flashing their gas fires and illuminating their colorful nylon envelopes (that's apparently what they're called).

The crowd was electric with anticipation as lines of balloons began to take shape all around us. With temperatures hovering around 40 degrees, we relished in the bursts of heat that accompanied the firelight.

As dawn broke, the loud speakers played the National Anthem while thousands of people sang along, and the first balloon to lift off fittingly displayed the flag. Mass Ascension had begun.

Within minutes, scores of balloons were ascending, displaying their brilliant colors to the wild cheers of their surrounding audience. We threaded our way through balloons in all stages of preparation - rolling out, filling up, standing up, and lifting off.

Over 500 balloons drifted into the sky during Mass Ascension, offering up a huge variety of colors and shapes that slowly flew into the distance.

Even after much of the crowd had dispersed and only a few balloons were launching, Loren and I were laughing and pointing to standout shapes. Smiles were glued to our faces as we squinted into the bright blue sky.

By the end, we'd taken hundreds of photos. I overheard that Balloon Fiesta is the most photographed event in the world, and while that may be debatable, it certainly generated enough data traffic to cripple the cell networks. Here are a few of our favorite balloons:

The overwhelming happiness, wonder, and excitement I felt around the balloons transported me to my childhood. The Balloon Fiesta is amazing in the truest sense of the word.

If You Go:

Use the Park and Ride. It's cheaper, and you don't have to battle traffic getting to the grounds. Choose one of the parking sites further from the highways to avoid the lines.

Layer up. It's cold in the morning, but as soon as the sun rises, temps begin to climb quickly. We wore hats and winter jackets, but gloves would've helped.

Bring sunglasses. The desert sun is bright, and you'll be looking up a lot. Enough said.

Pack something to sit on. The morning events last a good 4 hours, and seats were hard to come by. A good option would be a blanket or some lightweight camping chairs.

The Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta is an annual week-long festival that takes place in early October.

Update: Check out a video of our Balloon Fiesta experience!

Among Giants in Sequoia (Plus a Quick Dip)

It's not that easy to get to Sequoia National Park (only two roads in, both from the west), but it's well worth a visit. Only a few hours from Yosemite, but far less crowded, it boasts scores of magnificent Giant Sequoia trees, some of the biggest trees on Earth. General Sherman, while not the widest or tallest, is the largest living tree (by volume) in the world.

General Sherman, largest tree in the world (giant sequoia)

Their bark is fibrous, thick and fire-resistant. And their pinecones are amazing. According to the internet, a mature giant sequoia has about 11,000 cones at any given time, and can disperse 300,000–400,000 seeds per year!

Giant Sequoia Pinecone

Camping at Dorst Creek Campground was absolutely perfect. The spot in which we chose to settle down happened to start a trail leading down into the forest. At the end of the 5-minute hike was a magical oasis: a peaceful creek consisting of waterfalls trickling over smooth rock and a large wading pool.

Sequoia - Dorst Creek

The next morning, we awoke early and ate a quick breakfast before heading back to paradise for a bath (it had been 3 days without a shower!). It was bitter cold but wonderfully refreshing!

P.S. Can you name the only tree that has all five vowels?

Two Nights Camping in Yosemite

On our way back to New Mexico from a Palo Alto wedding in July, we decided to stop off and see one of the most epic national parks in the states: Yosemite. Known the world over as a superb destination for climbers, the vast valley surrounded with mountains is home to the granite giants Half Dome and El Capitan, two of the most famous rock climbing challenges.

During the summer months, the campsites down in the valley are mostly reserved ahead of time, so we camped one night at Tamarack Flat, on the north side, and then one night at Bridalveil Creek, south of the valley. The first morning, at Tamarack Flat, we spotted two chipmunks kissing on a boulder just behind our tent.

We got moving pretty early so we could stake out our second campsite before spending the day down in the valley. We were happy to find a sprawling site equipped with boulders and much-needed shady trees, where we were even able to set up our camping hammock! Since we knew we had a campsite to come back to, we headed to the valley.

For us, a highlight of the valley was Yosemite Falls. We followed a path to a viewing area, then scrambled our way through the woods and over boulders, ending at the place where the tallest waterfall in North America pounds the boulders and creates a gorgeous (swimmable) pool.

While driving back to our campsite, somewhat dazed from the awesomeness of nature, a confident coyote trotted up right next to our car for a brief photo op! I grabbed my iPhone and Kristen grabbed the Canon 7D, but neither of us were quick enough to get a crisp shot.

The next morning, we packed up our campsite with the intention of getting to our next destination, Sequoia, as soon as possible. We'd only driven 15 minutes from our campsite before we couldn't resist the urge anymore and to stopped off at a serene and colorful meadow. We spent a half hour exploring the native insects and flowers, but easily could have stayed all day.

Next time, we're bringing our climbing gear!

The End of the Road

Alas, after seven full weeks on the road, we arrived in Woodbridge, VA, at Kristen’s parents’ house, marking the official end of our cross-country roadtrip. It was a fantastic vacation, an impromptu whirl around the contiguous states, visiting family, friends and lots of beautiful, scenic views along the way. Here are some stats to put it into perspective.

49 days 11,559 miles 25 state lines crossed $1718.65 spent on gas 19 nights sleeping in a tent 5 nights in a hotel 15 National Parks visited 1 parking ticket 0 speeding violations

The first thing we did was reunite with our two kitties who’d been under the careful care of Kristen’s family. To celebrate our homecoming as well as Carolyn’s 24th birthday, we set out to shop for some quality dinner ingredients, which was tough in this neighborhood. (We suppose beggars can't be choosers?) After failing to find humanely-raised chicken at Food Lion (boo), we walked out and drove further down the road to Harris Teeter. Stocked up for the evening, we returned eager to let loose in a kitchen! The celebratory feast consisted of grilled chicken, sweet potato and coconut milk mash, and a delicious strawberry goat cheese salad with balsamic vinaigrette.

For dessert, Gary made a chocolate cake with rainbow chip frosting, with big “24” candles on top. Few things evoke childhood memories like rainbow chip frosting...

It’s always bittersweet when a trip reaches its end. For us, it seemed like we’d been gone for about a week. We couldn’t have asked for a better return. And we can't wait to hit the road again, whenever that may be.

Last Stop on the Roadtrip

We arrived into our final roadtrip stop, Roanoke, Virginia, after 8 hours of driving, receiving big hugs from Carolyn and Gary (Kristen’s sister and her sister’s boyfriend) just in time for the clock to strike midnight (east coast time) - signaling Carolyn’s 24th birthday. Fueled by the stories we had to tell, we recounted a few of the highlights of the trip, since we hadn’t seen each other in over 6 weeks, before hitting the hay like two sacks of rocks. Not even Sadie the dog sleeping between us (on a double bed, no less) could keep us from our slumbers.

After rising rather early to the smell of coffee (Carolyn is a nurse and wakes up early on her days off), we made breakfast for the group - eggs with veggies from the previous night’s roast Carolyn had made in celebration of our arrival. Shortly thereafter, we packed up our three cars and caravanned our way north on Interstate 81, careful to keep our speed in check by using cruise control (Kristen was ticketed last summer on that highway and totally learned her lesson).

On a whim, we pulled off the highway at Markham, VA, which is home to Hartland Orchard. Kristen’s family has gone apple-picking almost every year since 2006 at this orchard, so we couldn’t pass up the chance to get a half-bushel, play lacrosse with the picking claws, and take in some of the warm mid-atlantic sun. Also, it was a way to prolong our roadtrip by another hour or so. The trip was coming to an end quickly, and we wanted to savor the last few tens of miles as much as we possibly could.

Food, Posters and Cats in Nashville

After a cheap night of camping at a state park in Kansas, we drove for what seemed like ages until we reached Nashville, eager to get out of the car. We pulled up to our friends’ house in the Germantown neighborhood just as the sun was making its descent, painting the sky in oranges, yellows and reds. We were excited to visit, especially after hearing from another friend that it is “the best city in America!” - this coming from a guy who rarely uses superlatives. We decompressed a bit at Andrew and Emily's house and met their two cats before heading out to dinner.

By the time we sat down at our table, we’d memorized our order: bone marrow, beet salad, and the pork loin entree. So tasty! Especially the (vegetarian) beet salad.

Jeni's ice cream

The next morning, we went to the huge, year-round Nashville Farmer’s Market, featuring tons of local (and not-so-local) fresh fruit and vegetables, pickled and jarred products, and pretty much anything else one could want. Our attention was railroaded by the peaches everywhere, which seemed to be calling our name, so even though they hailed from Idaho, we loaded up with about two pounds and started brainstorming recipes.

Next, we hit up the historical strip downtown, intent on visiting the world-famous Hatch Show Prints shop. This group has been typesetting and printing local concert posters for decades, with a recognizable style all their own. Inside, it was dark and smelled like oil-based ink, the walls covered floor to ceiling with a mix of awesome vintage and contemporary prints. We were both instantly overwhelmed and inspired, captivated by the subdued grandiosity of the operation. Walking around in awed silence, we took it all in while our creative urges came to a rolling boil. This Nashville institution is an inspiration, to say the least.

There were also two super-happy if somewhat overweight cats lounging in the sunny windows behind some prints for sale. In fact, the cats were the centerpiece on a recent Hatch print, and boast their own hashtag: #hatchcats. Adorable and hip. We didn’t end up buying any original prints since we're technically homeless, but we did pick up a t-shirt and a postcard.

Back on the east side, we met Emily for lunch at Five Points Pizza. We each got a slice, split a salad, and splurged big-time on some garlic knots - garlicky dough twisted up into fist-sized knots - served with a tomato sauce dip. Apparently this place is fairly new but is already getting raving reviews. We agree with the praise!

Across the street, we browsed a row of cool shops, including a tiny, well-curated menswear store called Hello Boys, where Kristen bought Loren a belated birthday present: a pair of tie clips, which she’d been on the hunt for.

Before leaving the area, we popped into Bongo Java Roasting Company, a Nashville staple that takes pride in roasting coffee beans in-house and serving delicious caffeinated concoctions. The chalkboard specials, we came to find out, are invented and voted on by their own staff members. Loren got a special pumpkin-spice iced espresso, and Kristen got the regs (black iced coffee).

It was a quick yet fabulous visit to Music City, and we can’t wait to come back (and hopefully see Andrew next time too!) Thanks for the southern hospitality, Emily!

Kansas is Big

Even though we wanted to make it as far east as possible, we had to turn in around midnight after driving for the better part of the day. We'd only made it a little more than halfway through Kansas to Milford Lake State Park. Turns out the state is deceptively large. No wonder Oz seemed like worlds away, it probably took Dorothy a full day to get out of Kansas!

We drove around the park which was pretty desolate in this post-Labor day season, and found a spot near the lake but tucked away in the woods a bit to protect us from the famous prairie winds. Thankfully, the winds cooperated and we were able to sleep fairly uninterrupted.

The next morning, we got up early enough for Loren to cook up the last of our bacon before we hit the road again, stopping to gobble gobble at the family of turkeys crossing the park road.